Only 3,980 Miles To Go!

Sunday, March 27, 2016 - Berlin to New York

Sunrise in Berlin

A week goes by fast. Sigh. The last day of our familiar early morning routine. Get up. Get ready. Get out. The Sofitel had croissants, coffee and juice in the lobby for those getting an early start. Nice touch. Twenty minutes or so later we arrived at the completely old and outdated airport. After haggling with the taxi driver over cash vs credit card (he won), we exited the cab and entered the terminal. This was a familiar refrain from all the taxi drivers and, in an odd way, made me feel right at home since NYC taxi drivers also prefer cash.

We made our way to a dark, cramped check-in area. Berlin Tegel Airport was built 40 years ago to handle just 6 million passengers a year and now handles 20 million passengers annually. It was scheduled to be replaced in 2012 by a new shiny airport, Berlin Brandenburg. Delays due to construction incompetence bordering on fraud means Berlin is still a long way away from saying goodbye to Tegel.

Thanks to our seats in United BusinessFirst, we had our own check-in area. Additionally, because I have lifetime Star Alliance Gold status, we had access to the Lufthansa Senator lounge. Airport lounges are a great place to avoid the crowds in the terminal, and this lounge was no different. With a view from above we watched passengers walk by, and watched patrols from the now familiar armed police.

Mom Tip: He said it before and now I’ll say it again - status matters. The check in line for BusinessFirst was 8 persons long; the check in line for everyone else was too long to count and moved very s-l-o-w-l-y.

After a nice breakfast in the lounge we went downstairs to the security check. All elite and business class passengers were funneled through a separate immigration and security check (with only one security machine!), which took a very long time.

And yet again I was pulled out for a thorough security check. Darin said I lit up like a Christmas tree when going through security. Again?!* One person puts your bag on the conveyor belt. Another person looks at the bags through the security screen. A third person searches you (thoroughly). A fourth person searches your suitcase. My inside tip is don’t have Dr. Scholl’s gel insoles in your shoes when going through airport security. My second tip is pray for the new Berlin Brandenburg to open.

Shortly after getting through security we were allowed to board our bus to the remote stand. A beautiful day to fly with clear blue skies, we drove onto the tarmac and pulled up to our flight. Up the stairs and into the cabin we were warmly greeted and, with menus in hand, settled in our comfy seats for the 9 hour trip back home.

The flight was mostly smooth and, with the exception of being served a completely raw steak (which was noticed and quickly replaced with a delicious thai shrimp dish), 9 hours zipped by. There’s really no other way to fly and you can’t beat the comfort and service on a long flight.

We arrived on time into Newark Liberty International Airport and thanks to Global Entry, we were through immigration and customs in minutes. No lines. Eight years ago we also zipped through immigration and customs but this time was different. Now there was a kiosk into which we stared and placed our fingertips and passports. After it scanned our iris and our fingerprints and confirmed our passports, we were waved through by a human being. Welcome Home, he said. Crazy cool!

We settled in the United Club Lounge to wait for our connecting flights. I was able to grab a shower in the lounge and get refreshed for the 5+ hours to LA. 

After a couple of hours I escorted mom to her flight to ROC before sitting at the gate waiting for my delayed flight to board. About the time my flight was taxiing to the runway, mom texted that she had safely arrived in Rochester. Although I was home in Rochester, the trip wasn’t over until my son texted me that he’d arrived home safely - greeted by his wife, my daughter-in-law Hayley. The safe end to another -  never to be forgotten -  mother son adventure. What’s next?

The Last Hurrah

Saturday March 26, 2016 - Berlin, Germany

Our final day in Europe. Thankfully we have been blessed with a beautiful, sunny day. Having decided to visit the concentration camp on our next visit, our last day was active, but easily manageable. After finishing our daily allotment of complimentary Nespresso coffee, we were off to the Kaiser Wilhelm Church, one of Berlin’s most famous landmarks.

As we mentioned before, over 70% of Berlin was destroyed during WWII. In November of 1943 the church burned down after it was hit by British bombers. Only the partially destroyed west tower of the church was still standing. Instead of rebuilding or restoring the church it was made structurally sound, and the west tower of the church was kept largely in its damaged state. It is one of the few (if any) original structures left and you can easily imagine the extensive  damage from the Allied bombings. This part of the church is now an exhibition, and one worth visiting.

Mom Tip - Be prepared for history to hit you in the head and the heart. It’s one thing reading about the war and it is entirely another to see it up close and personal. The damage to the infrastructure is unimaginable.

Upon exiting the church, we unexpectedly found ourselves in a bustling street market - how convenient! It turns out Easter is a big deal in Germany, and there were decorations in front of, next to and behind the vendor stalls. From cool homemade jewelry (we could not resist buying) to traditional German food and beverage, today was the day to be outside. We strolled through the market en route to the KaDaWe, which is like Macy’s meets Harrods. KaDaWe was mentioned several times during our trip and if a supermarket in Rochester can be a tourist destination (Wegman’s) why not a department store in Berlin?

Several blocks from the church and we were at the KaDaWe’s front door. It’s impressive. The Kaufhaus des Westens- KaDeWe- is a Thai-owned department store with over 60,000 square meters (645,830 square feet) of selling space. It is the largest department store in continental Europe.

Store information in a dozen or more languages is available upon entrance. Seven stories, one half floor just for luggage, and a market on the top floor, this place is an impressive ode to capitalism. We picked up some high end chocolates as gifts and decided to take a break at the champagne bar. Yes, that’s right, Veuve Clicquot has their own champagne bar -  you know if you just want to stop and toast to life. You can reserve space - reserve your stool - at the champagne bar! Stopping made sense to us.

We could have spent all day in KaDaWe, but we had plans so it was time to move on. We caught the HOHO to the Berlin Wall, which was just around the corner from Checkpoint Charlie. Finally, the wall. It was what I’d been waiting to see and touch. The Berlin Wall divided Berlin from 1961 to 1989 and of the 87 miles of wall, there is not much of it left standing. And what is left of the original is the 4th generation wall. The wall was continually being reinforced and redesigned to make it more difficult to go over, around, through and under. It’s difficult to get an idea of how the wall cut through the city but there are two preserved sites in the city and three or more museums with reconstructed representations.

I wanted the real deal so we stopped at the stretch of the original Berlin Wall that displays the ravages of time and souvenir hunters. People pick and scratch at the wall and the Berliners call them “woodpeckers.” While the visit through the Mauer Museum the day before was overwhelming with so many stories of escapees, standing next to the wall helped put into perspective the bravery of those who made daring escapes to the west. Along the wall there is documentation of the rise of the Nazi Party, the events that took place during its reign and the building and eventual demolition of the wall. It was truly a highlight of the trip and a place that is worth a second visit. A powerful experience.

Across the street was a kitsch food stand with prices that reflected their proximity to a major tourist attraction. It was the first time we would be charged for catchup. We needed a break and the food stand had tables and chairs. The Wall and the accompanying museum Topography of Terror is fascinating, but can take a long time to be done right. During our lunch break (sausage and fries), we were treated to the sight of tourists on the weirdest bike contraptions cycling down the street, and the sights and sounds of a warm spring day in Berlin.

After a short walk to Checkpoint Charlie we grabbed the HOHO back to the Gendarmenmarkt and rested in the Sofitel for a short break and to make reservations for dinner. No street food and room service for us on our last night. A real meal at an authentic German restaurant. Out again by 4:30pm, we checked out the menu at the Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt and confirmed our plans to return for dinner at 7:30pm.

Around the corner from our hotel was Galeries Lafayette Berlin and another street full of shopping. It would be rude to not see what was on offer. A quick in and out and we were on our way to the Nespresso store. Our few days with the Nespresso machine in the hotel convinced us that we should window shop in the Nespresso store. We ended up talking to an expat from Maine that had lived in Germany for 30 years. After he schooled us in the working of the different espresso machines, he invited us to enjoy a cup at the coffee bar in the store. He explained that Europeans did not take coffee “to go” in large cups and sipped leisurely from smaller cups while sitting and enjoying conversation. Although we could purchase, online, a Nespresso machine with large American-sized cups.

Leaving the Nespresso store, we found our way to Ritter, conveniently located around the corner from our hotel.  Ritter is a confectionary giant similar to Hershey or Cadbury, and the store was like F.A.O Shwartz for chocolate. The three floors and almost 10,000sf of space give you the opportunity to treat yourself to everything you fancy. Impressive and tasty. In addition to a Ritter chocolate statue over 10 feet tall, and every chocolate combination they sell, there is also a make your own Ritter bar assembly line. Yes please! Keep in mind this process takes at least an hour and is similar to the “build-a-bear” style with the end result - your own chocolate bar made to order. Gifts all around for US friends and colleagues.

We arrived back at the hotel just shy of 7:00pm and decided to walk over early and get seated for dinner. Augustiner is decorated in the style of a typical Bavarian winter lodge with dark paneled ceiling and walls.  Lederhosen wearing staff carry giant steins of beer, while the smell of roasted meat wafts through the air. 1.5 liters of beer later, one giant pork knuckle and another entree of pork and cabbage between the two of us and we were ready to be rolled to our beds. Remember how I mentioned our hotel was perfectly located? Well about 240 feet after departing the restaurant we walked into the hotel.

What, back in the hotel by 8:30pm? How unusual for us. The rest of the evening was spent packing and getting ready for our long journey back to the U.S. We would be on our way by 6:00am.

Berlin Looks Good for Being 800 Years Old

Friday March 25, 2016 - Berlin, Germany

Today was the first morning since our trip began six days ago, that we were able to relax. I slept in late, while mom’s morning adventure consisted of exploring the expansive hotel breakfast. Although it was not included in our hotel rate, apparently it was worth it, with a full spread from fish to meat, mushrooms to eggs and bread of all types and descriptions.  Overcast and rainy, there was little incentive to move quickly to see the sites. Today was the perfect day to get a late start.

Our elegant hotel was in former East Berlin and we wanted to explore East Berlin’s history. This was a perfect day for the Hop On Hop Off bus (HOHO). A chance to see Berlin from the comfort of a dry bus with an audio guide. Just across the Gendermenmarkt plaza we could see the HOHO station from our hotel window. 

At 11:45am we came downstairs and, after a quick stop in the lobby, we had our vouchers in hand for the HOHO. A few minutes later we were on our way following in the wake of an Easter parade that had crossed the plaza earlier.

Pro Tip - Spend time researching what you want to see, and where you want to visit before selecting accommodations. Sometimes the #1 tripadvisor hotel in the city is not the right answer for your trip. In our case, if we had chosen, we could have walked to almost all of the sites we wanted to see in Berlin, saving significant transportation costs.

It was no accident that our hotel was conveniently located to everything we wanted to see. For the next 15-20 minutes via the HOHO we passed by a handful of Berlin sites, including a few grand (and I mean GRAND) churches that survived the allied bombings in WWII. Approximately 70% of Berlin was destroyed in the war, and as the city is a tad over 800 years old, any historic remaining structures are coveted. Berlin has been in a state of renewal for some time, as you can tell by all the construction in the city. It was interesting to note that one or more buildings had a skin or facade draped over the entire building to conceal ongoing construction. Gives the building a clean and uncluttered look.

Our first port of call was the Brandenburg Gate, perhaps the most iconic location in Berlin today. Since its erection in 1791, the gate has served as a grand entrance to and partition of Berlin - east from west. The gate is one of the most popular and visited landmarks in Berlin. Do you remember when Michael Jackson held his baby over the railing at his hotel? That was at a hotel 600 ft from the Brandenburg Gate.

Unfortunately, it started pouring rain so we stood underneath the gate for a while until it turned to a light drizzle. From there we walked in front of the U.S. Embassy, which is adjacent to the Gate, and across the street to the The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. A very large, very impactful memorial, that was new to both Mom and me. We tried to go into the information center and museum below the memorial, but there was a long line that was moving slowly. A visit for another trip.

After a brief stop at the souvenir shops on the perimeter, we walked back to the Brandenburg Gate, where I grabbed some street food (sausage and fries with a dollop of mayonnaise), and we were back on the HOHO. Initially the driver didn’t want to let me on board with my messy looking food, but acquiesced with a plea to be careful.

We cruised around the Bundestag (German Parliament) and disembarked the HOHO at the Berlin HBF stop. The station was even more impressive during the day and quite busy. It was time for lunch and we stopped so mom could have a quick bite to eat sans mayonnaise or milk products.  This is no ordinary train station. It has a glass roof, suspended platforms and lots of light. The Berlin Central Train Station, considered the biggest train station in Europe, is state-of-the-art, has 5 levels and countless shops, restaurants and conveniences for travelers with over 300,000 passengers per day.

Mom Tip: The WC requires a small fee to enter so have some change on hand. A woman attendant has a very small office in the WC and, as you can imagine with a 24 hour attendant, it’s all very clean. If you ask for a bathroom or a washroom no one will understand. Water closet it is!

With stomachs full and rain continuing, we hopped back on the HOHO. The HOHO runs in a loop and the next item on our list, Checkpoint Charlie, was the stop before our hotel. So we hunkered in and did almost a full loop on the HOHO pressing noses to the window to see the city sights. We passed the Tiergarten (the Central Park of Berlin), numerous embassies, glitzy shopping areas and the house of the German Chancellor before arriving at Checkpoint Charlie. It was still overcast, and occasionally drizzling, but at least the heavy rain had stopped.

 As the bus passed the Berlin Wall on the way to Checkpoint Charlie, I almost shouted at the driver, Stop Stop! The Berlin Wall was on my top list of tourist sites. I remember when the wall came down in 1989. If you were an adult at the time it’s not something you will soon forget. As it turns out I would get to visit the wall but not before stopping at Checkpoint Charlie, a place Darin had previously visited.

Checkpoint Charlie is a heavily trafficked tourist area. It was the best-known Berlin Wall crossing point between East Berlin and West Berlin during the Cold War. Although the barricade and checkpoint kiosk is still there, now there are campy actors, dressed in Allied WWII uniforms, who pose for pictures with tourists. Stop if you must but I did not see any need to linger and Darin and I went next door to the far more interesting Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie - Mauer Museum - founded by human rights activist Dr. Rainer Hildebrandt.

One of the must-visits of the Checkpoint Charlie destination is the oddly curated Mauer Museum. It’s clearly a labor of love with an extraordinary number of artifacts stuffed into its many rooms to keep alive the stories of those escapees who risked their lives to win their freedom. There are news stories of escapes and objects displayed that were used to escape over, under and through the Berlin Wall.

Worth the visit, however be prepared to spend at least a good two hours, and most of your patience. There is a lot to read and see. This museum captures the real politik, daily struggles and ingenuity of Germans living in a divided Berlin. The audio guide is helpful, but you must leave an I.D. card as collateral, and on the second floor a feeling of claustrophobia can set in because the small subdivided rooms seemingly go on forever.

Our museum visit took longer than expected and we missed the 5:30pm cut off for visitors to board the HOHO which stops at 6pm. As we mulled over the situation, and mom’s reluctance to walk back to the hotel, we were fortunate enough to grab an off duty HOHO a little after 6pm. The driver graciously drove us the one stop to the Gendermenmarkt - and we walked across the picturesque plaza to our hotel.

For the next couple of hours we relaxed and planned out our remaining full day in Berlin. Our trip was going to be cut short and we would be leaving Berlin Sunday morning instead of taking our originally planned 8pm flight from Berlin to Brussels. We initially tried to cram 1.5 days of activities into Sunday, our remaining day. This would allow us to visit, as planned, the Sachsenhausen concentration camp, used primarily for political prisoners from 1936 to the end of the Third Reich in May 1945. Unfortunately, the travel logistics were complicated (the camp is near Oranienburg, north of Berlin) and take most of the day, so we reluctantly decided to leave the visit for another trip.  A leisurely day in Berlin seemed the perfect choice. We ordered room service, which again took forever, and had lights out by 11pm.

Pro Tip - I said it before, and I will say it again, status matters! It is common in European hotels to charge for internet. We were able to have free high speed internet, and many free bottles of water during our stay due to our hotel status. That’s a real cost savings!

Mom Tip - It’s okay to relax and have little indulgences. Two bathrooms in a hotel room are better than one. Sometimes taxi’s are better than walking. Hop On Hop Off is perfect on a rainy day. Room service can be a Godsend.  It’s okay to save a ‘must see’ activity for another time - or another year.